They learn how to maintain balance, recover after being submerged, and control their breathing when waves force them beneath the surface.
Those abilities can be valuable during unexpected emergencies.
But a shark attack is not simply another surfing accident.
The animal's strength, the injuries caused by its jaws, and the uncertainty of its movements create dangers that ordinary surfing experience cannot eliminate.
Morita's experience may have helped him remain capable of acting while submerged.
According to his account, he continued fighting even after the shark dragged him underwater a second time.
When punching failed, he changed his approach.
He wrapped his body around the shark and tried to gain leverage.
The decision was improvised under extreme pressure.
It was not a technique that could be expected to work in every encounter.
Nor should it be understood as proof that a person can reliably overpower a shark.
The animal eventually released him, but its exact reason for doing so remains unknown.
Morita's account illustrates the importance of remaining responsive during an emergency while also demonstrating the unpredictability of wildlife encounters.
He had no way to know that wrapping himself around the shark would help.
He could only respond to the situation he was facing.
The animal was holding his leg.
His punches were not freeing him.
And he needed another opportunity to escape.
His decades of experience may have helped him make that decision without surrendering to panic.
But the result was also dependent on circumstances beyond his control.
The shark eventually let go.
Nearby surfers were close enough to assist.
And Morita survived the injuries he sustained.
Chapter 9: What Made the Encounter So Dangerous?
Several factors made the April 9, 2023, attack particularly serious.
The first was the shark's grip on Morita's leg.
The animal did not simply brush against him or make brief contact.
It seized his right leg and maintained its hold while he fought to escape.
The second was the repeated submersion.
Morita was dragged underwater twice.
That created a danger beyond the bite itself because he could not breathe normally while submerged.
The third factor was the physical power of the animal.
The shark was described by witnesses as approximately seven feet long.
Even at that estimated size, a tiger shark possesses considerable strength.
Morita's punches did not immediately break its grip.
The fourth factor was the injury to his leg.
The bite caused serious damage that required hospital treatment.